Gulp of Exotic from Travels
Caribbean Sand
7 October, 2003

Scotts Head's Aroma of Freedom at the South West

Observe the past ages from the Galion.

Photo: Galion

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The night. A full moon illuminates the Caribbean Sea, but cannot to drive away a severity of high darkness hills. Somewhere there, among them, a solitary flame burns lonely. Amazing that is not extinguished by a strong wind. Wind with a strange intoxicating aroma. Here, close to the Scott's Head village, in the review comfortable area on the top of a tall mountain, which is called Galion, you have already felt the changes: you are poured unnoticeably through the unfolded night landscape by the strength of three elements – the Caribbean Sea, wind and the earth. They speak to you by their wild language, which makes your heartbeats more frequently and in the head comes thoughts about strange cold winds and strong warriors, who came in their vessels to the silent Dominica's shore under the same full-moon and that flame might possibly burnt for somebody also and awaited something.

Fantasies of the inflamed brain? It is hardly.

The French capture of Scotts Head

Photos: Fort Cachacrou

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Exactly 225 years ago, at 7th September, in the middle of the hurricane season, the army of Frenchmen approached stealthily to the Dominica shore by frigates and hand boats in the night of the same full moon. About three thousand men silently cut waves of the Caribbean Sea. They knew that English would not trouble themselves by guarding the island in the season of hurricanes and a night of the bright moon.

Moreover, the night before, notified in advance about coming capture French inhabitants had made drunk till small red imps almost the whole poor English army and at the night of attack some part of people hid in the mountains lest would be fallen by the hot hand, somebody stayed in the town and had no plan to help with defence of Englishmen. As a result, the numerous French army overcame the raged sea, had got the signal from the coast, swam up silently to the Scotts Head and climb up on tiptoes under the whistle of wind and sleeping people to the hill-top, where was changed the rest of Englishmen from the sweet to the eternal.

But month ago on the Galion I didn't know about that story, but already felt. Just one hour later I will on the Scotts Head to breathe the mystery of this peninsula.

Attractive mystery of Scotts Head.

During my stay on the island, my glance ran on the Caribbean horizon and always was stopped by small drop or big cliffs – it depends in what part of island I was. It always was a look to the Scotts Head, but not to the backward.

Photo: Scotts Head's Isthmus

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Scotts Head is a special place, which hold the whole of island. There you are gotten a new power by the bracing wind, a peculiar aroma of local grasses, hissing of ocean waves and, perhaps, a new glance – from Scotts head to the island.

At the first time I had been on the Scotts Head at night, on the second time by daylight at week later. These are two sides of one medal: formidable and rigorous at the night and appeased by the day. But in either event it's always the element.
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